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Old Apr 11, 2011 | 01:36 PM
  #3621  
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Most of us have the ball bearing bar mount that's "heavy duty"
Old Apr 11, 2011 | 04:03 PM
  #3622  
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Originally Posted by chetly
The only problem with them, is when I call in and talk to one of their tech people they can't tell me the spring rate of the blade when on soft. I would hate to buy a blade only to have it be to soft or to stiff.
correct me if I am wrong, but wouldn't they need to know center bar too to determine spring rate? or are you looking spring rate from the splines to the mounting point (based on setting)?

Wouldn't think they would have that. if you know what you want I can probably get an answer, was in there today.
Old Apr 11, 2011 | 04:37 PM
  #3623  
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From my understanding of the way a blade type bar works, when the blade is vertical, then the spring rate of the bar will be the force that the wheels will see. When the blade is horizontal, then it will work off the spring rate of the blade. I know the blades from Guy are around the 600lbs range and I'm looking for a 550-600lbs blade. I know I need the 7.65 long blade.
Old Apr 11, 2011 | 05:40 PM
  #3624  
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So quick question about fenders. In the front I'm 13" center of hub to metal of fender on the driver's side and 12.75" center of hub to fender on passenger side (don't ask why they're different ). 17x9 +63 wheels, 255/40/17 hankooks, 3 degrees camber achieved via J's S2 balljoints, 0 toe, 7 degrees caster. 800 lb springs.

On the passenger fender I'm getting major rubbing - after one autocross 3 clips are gone, and I have a two holes in the liner - one on the outside of the wheel at the fender tab, and one on the inside of the wheel at the corner of that lip (same as shown on Random1's website here - http://random1photo.zenfolio.com/p36...3c9f#h26aa3c9f).

I'm going to raise the passenger side to 13" I think. But, even on the driver's side where it's 13" I'm wearing in both the same places, just not nearly as bad. I know to prevent rubbing on the outside I have to bend in the tabs, that makes sense. But what can I do for the inside side of the fender liner?
Old Apr 11, 2011 | 06:10 PM
  #3625  
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7 degrees caster has to be insane. I have a hard enough time getting 6 degrees to load the front properly on low speed turns.
Old Apr 11, 2011 | 06:15 PM
  #3626  
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I think we have the car dialed in...we did a test 'n tune a few weeks ago on my last season's star specs and the rear tires are basically bald...LoL

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZgLkIUEgUn0

..then we switched over to Dan's 949 wheels on last season's R-S3s. That's felt pretty good but you they basically started to grease up after our 4th runs. Can't wait to slap on the TSW wheels with fresh R-S3s in a few weeks in preparation for the meadowlands pro solo

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LbyqjGf1Dgk
Old Apr 11, 2011 | 06:15 PM
  #3627  
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...and for shits and giggles, I went to a PCA events at Tobay beach and showed them what the S could do by setting 9th fastest raw time out of 87 total drivers

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FZsvwLTSLyY
Old Apr 11, 2011 | 11:06 PM
  #3628  
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Originally Posted by IntegraR0064
So quick question about fenders. In the front I'm 13" center of hub to metal of fender on the driver's side and 12.75" center of hub to fender on passenger side (don't ask why they're different ). 17x9 +63 wheels, 255/40/17 hankooks, 3 degrees camber achieved via J's S2 balljoints, 0 toe, 7 degrees caster. 800 lb springs.

On the passenger fender I'm getting major rubbing - after one autocross 3 clips are gone, and I have a two holes in the liner - one on the outside of the wheel at the fender tab, and one on the inside of the wheel at the corner of that lip (same as shown on Random1's website here - http://random1photo.zenfolio.com/p36...3c9f#h26aa3c9f).

I'm going to raise the passenger side to 13" I think. But, even on the driver's side where it's 13" I'm wearing in both the same places, just not nearly as bad. I know to prevent rubbing on the outside I have to bend in the tabs, that makes sense. But what can I do for the inside side of the fender liner?
Are you running a lot of rebound in the front? The only time I have gotten the fender to rub on the inside (reference photo) was on a bumpy lot with too much rebound. The high rebound jacks the suspension down when in steady state turns going over bumps. BTW I am running the front at 12.25" hub center to metal fender edge with 850 lb springs and ~900 lb/in FSB (Comptech on full stiff). Camber is about -2.7. Rear ride height is 12.5" with about -2.5 camber and MX-5 sway bar (~125 lb/in).
Old Apr 12, 2011 | 08:57 AM
  #3629  
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Originally Posted by Random1
Are you running a lot of rebound in the front? The only time I have gotten the fender to rub on the inside (reference photo) was on a bumpy lot with too much rebound. The high rebound jacks the suspension down when in steady state turns going over bumps. BTW I am running the front at 12.25" hub center to metal fender edge with 850 lb springs and ~900 lb/in FSB (Comptech on full stiff). Camber is about -2.7. Rear ride height is 12.5" with about -2.5 camber and MX-5 sway bar (~125 lb/in).
How much caster do you have?

I do think I had too much rebound. I have the standard SRP rebound valving. See link here for a dyno plot (note my compression is totally different than that). I was running around the middle setting or slightly higher, with 800 lb springs and my gendron bar with ball bearing mounts set to 3 out of 6.

Thanks for the input.
Old Apr 12, 2011 | 03:39 PM
  #3630  
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I posted in the SPC Camber Joint vs J's Racing S1 thread, but since this is of particular importance in STR setup and I think that other thread will eventually get lost, I'll post some of the info here. There is a third choice to get more camber. It's a copy of the J's L1 camber joint, but at SPC prices. Dunno if I can post the name of the shop or the price, so just PM me and I'll give you the info. Here is a pic:



I was having the same issue in deciding J's vs SPC, but the damn J's is just too expensive and I don't trust the SPCs, plus I'd like to install them myself which you can't really do with the SPC. They have some other products that are of interest to STR as well. Hope this is of some use to you guys.

James



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